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O.R.P.K – Educational robot for each kid

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1818505613/mbot-49-educational-robot-for-each-kid
ONE ROBOT PER KID. mBot is the easiest educational robot for kids to learn programming, Arduino and robotics.
bc195c8bf51e2e8a56cbdb6edd803e77_original
mBot is a low cost, easy-to-run robot kit for kids to get hands-on experience about graphical programming, electronics, robotics. It is an all-in-one solution for robotics learning and designed for STEM education.
mbot
Cute shape with easy assembly is our goal. mBot contains only about 45 pieces in total, so it is easy to have a sense of achievement for kids to assemble in 10 mins quickly.

Since Scratch2.0 is very popular in teachers and students as a graphical programming software, it has almost been proved to be the most easy-to-use graphical programming tool. So based on Scratch 2.0, we develop a new software mBlock to use Scratch-style coding to program Arduino and robots. You are free to download from here.
mbot
New features in mBlock:

  • Based on scratch 2.0 developed by MIT Media Lab, nice interface and easy for everyone.
  • Free & source code: the software is free and support Window & Mac systems. We will also open the source code later.
  • Supports wireless communication: you can use Bluetooth or 2.4GHz wireless serial to communicate with mBot. And download the program wirelessly is supported.
  • Supports standard Arduino boards, like Arduino Uno, Lenardo boards, Makeblock mCore(Based on Arduino Uno) and etc. With open communication protocols and source code, it is easy to add new support for new hardware.
  • Easy to use: The easiest way to program your Arduino and robots.

mbot

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Arduino Bot Android Remote Control II

FRLIDM5HR0ARVE8.MEDIUM

When I bought my Complubot one year ago, I didn’t thought how fun I could be, I’ve practice with follow line vehicle, brush car, but when I read I read the article on instructables related to bluethooth rc, I began to think it would be fun to mix, android and arduino programs. First I thought to order a hc-06 interface, it took a few days to come because I have not much time, I installed and made operational tests with my PC. To try to compile and install the program from the android sdk I take more time. As I was anxious, tried a Google Play application, easy to install and use.

Step 1: Mounting and connecting

As shown on the picture, the robot uses servo modified for use in continuous movement. HC-06 is connected to +5 V, gnd, pin 0 from Arduino to HC-06 Tx and pin 1 from Arduino to HC-06 Rx, note that when sending program to Arduino disconnect HC-06 due it used same serial port.

FCR1BBUHR0ARVC0.MEDIUM FMZ606QHR0ARWEY.LARGE FI99CISHR0ARVDI.MEDIUM

Step 2: Programming

/*
Arduino driver for Android app remote control.
This sketch listens to instructions on the Serial port
then activates motors as required
Then sends back confirmation to the app
*/
#include 
#define derechoParada 72
#define izquierdoParada 73
#define derechoAdelante 10
#define izquierdoAdelante 100
#define derechoAtras 90
#define izquierdoAtras 50

Servo derecho;
Servo izquierdo;

void setup() {

derecho.attach(10);
izquierdo.attach(11);
derecho.write(derechoParada);
izquierdo.write(izquierdoParada);
Serial.begin(9600);
}

void loop() {

// see if there's incoming serial data:
if (Serial.available() > 0) {
// read the oldest byte in the serial buffer:
int incomingByte = Serial.read();

// action depending on the instruction
// as well as sending a confirmation back to the app
switch (incomingByte) {
  case 'F':
    derecho.write(derechoAdelante);
    izquierdo.write(izquierdoAdelante);
    Serial.println("Going forward");
    delay(100);
  break;
case 'R':
derecho.write(derechoParada);
izquierdo.write(izquierdoAdelante);
delay(100);
break;
case 'L':
derecho.write(derechoAdelante);
izquierdo.write(izquierdoParada);
Serial.println("Turning left");
delay(100);
break;
case 'B':
derecho.write(derechoAtras);
izquierdo.write(izquierdoAtras);
Serial.println("Going backwards");
delay(100);
break;
case 'S':
derecho.write(derechoParada);
izquierdo.write(izquierdoParada);
Serial.println("Stopping");
delay(100);
break;
default:
// if nothing matches, do nothing
break;
}
}
}

Step 3: Install Arduino Bluetooth Controller from Google Play

FINVTYYHR0ARVEE.MEDIUM

All application settings and commands are permanently stored and can be accessed and modified any time according to your needs .

Step 4: Final comments

The application have some adds when finish using it but it is not a problem.

FFB15OEHR0ARY31.MEDIUM

Complubot is a robot school in Alcala de Henares (Madrid) where children learn to program and a lot of things related to Arduino bot. I could get the 3D printed robot, thanks to them

Source: http://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-bot-Android-remote-control-II/?ALLSTEPS

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iPad App Blends Virtual Warfare & Real-World Characters

TankWars-Brought-to-Life

This project is a basic proof of concept of creating a “physical” video game using real-world characters.  For this project, a tank and robot duke it out with the help of an ArduinoiPad, and wifi.  Essentially, when the tank’s targeting system is adjusted using the iPad app, the physical tank responds accordingly.  When the tank successfully hits its target, the robot’s indicator LED turns red and the iPad app reflects the successful strike.

Both the robot and tank are equipped with Arduino Wifi modules which interact with the iPad via a PHP webpage.  While it’s just a simple proof of concept for now, think of expanding this into something like a first-person quadrocopter war!  Just imagine your tablet as a window into your quadrocopter’s cockpit with buttons to fire at and ‘destroy’ your enemy.  Awesome stuff!

Check Out Full Project: http://www.instructables.com/id/TankWars-A-Physical-Video-Game/

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Super Simple Self-Balancing Robot Tutorial

VertiBOT

Since the introduction of the segway, DIYers have been building their own self-balancing transportation devices.  Before you go off and build a full-size version, here’s a simple project to help you learn the basics of control system design (the software which powers the balancing act).  Essentially, a microcontroller reads sensors such as gyroscopes and accelerometers, then uses a PID algorithm to make minute adjustments to the robot’s wheels.

The little robot featured above is powered by an Arduino Nano and remotely controlled via bluetooth.  Additionally, the device features three potentiometers to fine tune the balancing algorithm.  Both the wheels and body were 3D printed.  To learn how to build your own minature self-balancing robot, check out the full project details.

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Jenschr’s Makeblock 3D printer build log

5

DESCRIPTION

The idea is to build a printer based on the ideas in Lulzbot’s TAZ printer30. The TAZ is basically the same as a Reprap Mendel 9011, but it has a vertical X-axis for the print head carriage. My plan is to use a horizontal carriage (like on Mendel 90), but since I`m building it with Makeblock, it will be fairly easy to switch this later.
I’ll use only Makeblock parts if possible and anything that is suitable using just standard parts. This means that I’ll try to build all linear parts with the linear blocks rather than the typical LMU8 used in other printers.
I already have an Ultimaker & a Printrbot, so I’m not just building any old printer. The build volume should be huge (almost 30x30x30cm) and the hotend will be from E3D in the UK. The E3D hotend12 can reach the 260C required to print Nylon without melting. I can’t do that with the other two printers.
I got great help from the Makeblock crew getting hold of parts and the first thing I did was to build the main frame.
DETAILS

#THE PLAN

The idea is to build a printer based on the ideas in Lulzbot’s TAZ printer31. The TAZ is basically the same as a Reprap Mendel 9012, but it has a vertical X-axis for the print head carriage. My plan is to use a horizontal carriage (like on Mendel 90), but since I`m building it with Makeblock, it will be fairly easy to switch this later.

I’ll use only Makeblock parts if possible and anything that is suitable using just standard parts. This means that I’ll try to build all linear parts with the linear blocks rather than the typical LMU8 used in other printers.

I already have an Ultimaker & a Printrbot, so I’m not just building any old printer. The build volume should be huge (almost 30x30x30cm) and the hotend will be from E3D in the UK. The E3D hotend13 can reach the 260C required to print Nylon without melting. I can’t do that with the other two printers.

I got great help from the Makeblock crew getting hold of parts and the first thing I did was to build the main frame. It`s really quite solid! Here’s me standing on top of it in the Bitraf8hackerspace lab.

#DAY ONE

1

After going through the parts and testing some ideas, I solved how to fasten the Z-axis (up/down) steppers and linear rails this first evening.

2

Here’s the frame before I attached the linear rails.

#DAY TWO

Today it was time to start on the Y-axis. I want it to be detachable for transport (like on the TAZ) and fairly wide so I can easily fit the build surface onto it. The first annoyance was that the two 24×24 beams will not fit perfectly hole-wise. Bummer. I`ll have to use the main holes on one side and then the center-slot on the other side. Both will work, but I had hoped for it all to align.

I didn’t have any beams that were wide enough, but I’ve joined some 8×24 beams in a way that looks good. Two nylon spacers at the end of the linear rails make these fit as well. Looks good!

3

In this picture you can also see the Z-axis steppers that I fitted the day before. Now it’s gliding, so next up it’s time to add the stepper that moves it. The first three designs I did for this, had a major flaw – they used the 18T pulley. No matter how I tried to force the belt stay onto the pulley, it still slipped :(

Now if I only had a slightly bigger pulley, this would not happen. The ideal would be a 32T pulley or something like that, but that’s not part of the Makeblock system (yet). The next size is the 62T pulley, but this one is missing pulley slice’s so I’ll have to use the 90T version then. Oh! I also have some of those new Nylon pulleys with bearings! Let’s see…

4

Yeah. This will work. Next problem – building a platform that clears these rods and pulleys. I soon realised that I didn’t have the most suitable beams at hand. I tried lots of variants, but this is the solution I settled on:

5

This will do for now, but I’ll need to change this a bit. Hopefully I’ll get some extra parts from Makeblock.no(my local reseller) tomorrow, but in the mean time I’ll work on the Z-axis. In the back, you can see the 30×30 cm wooden board that will hold the heater.

Source: http://hackaday.io/project/1541-jenschrs-makeblock-3d-printer-build-log

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MASHR – My Arduino Start Here Robot

IMG_0956

Introduction:

MASHR is my attempt to build a start here robot for beginners. It is Arduino based, but didn’t use a standard Arduino booard. An Romeo all-in-one robot controller (Arduino compatible with motor driver) has been used instead. The chassis is selfmade from a sheet of polystyrol (PS). Pololu wheels and motors give a good traction and the option to add wheel encoders later.

Controller:

A long research has been done to find the right controller board. It ended up with the decision for the Romeo all-in-one robot controller from DFRobot. It has everything onboard what a cool robot needs:

  • Motor controller. The L298 is the big brother of the L293, but more powerfull
  • 3 pin Headers for all IO Pins. Each IO has it’s own VCC and GND
  • extra Motor Power  connector
  • extra Servo Power connector. With a Jumper you can can select between servo power and internal VCC for the digital IOs.
  • Full Arduino compatible, ATmega328 processor with Arduino bootloader
  • extra Wireless/BT connector
  • 8 analog IOs instead of 6 of the original Arduino board
  • extra I2C connectors
  • 7 user buttons. 5 buttons can be controlled from 1 A/D input
  • All in one board, no extra shields required
  • Arduino compatible shield expander ports
  • pre assembled, no need to solder
  • available around the world from many distributors

Before I checked different combinations of boards and motor shields for the Arduino. But I didn’t find a suitable motor controller shield.

Partlist:

The parts for the robot should cost around 110$. Here is the part list:

011 017

Chassis:

A robot should have a chassis. Instead of a prebuild chassis a selfmade chassis is my favorite choice. Ok, you will need more tools to build your own chassis, on the other side you have the freedom to build it for your needs. For this beginner robot a 2-wheel differential drive is the best choice. The chassis should be a round platform or almost round, the wheels should be placed in the center of the robot. So the robot can turn in place, without  bumping into obstacles. Because 2 wheels are not stable at least a 3rd supporting wheel / ball caster on the backside is needed. I added also a 4rd supporting wheel on the front, so the robot don’t fall over on a sharp break.

The chassis is build from polystyrol (PS) and designed with Google SketchUp. A great free tool for 3D CAD. For later use it’s important to draw the chassis in a 1:1 scale. So you can print out your design as drill and cut form. The first video shows the chassis building process.

The wheels are mounted inside the chassis, so the robot shouldn’t hang on an obstacle.

5097292349_6aa8f5ba31_o

Sensors:

Only one sensor has been used. An ultrasonic range sensor from DFrobot, the URM37 has been used. It has different modes of operation. At the moment the sensor is running in serial mode. 2 processor pin and the Arduino software serial lib is used.

5097869910_2e0ccc0533_o

A piece of L shape polystyrol profile has been used as sensor mount.

IMG_0963

Power supply:

Board and motors where powered by a single 6xAA battery pack, to keep the total weight of the robot low. To power servos from the same power supply a little trick helps. The battery pack gets an second supply output after the 4th cell. This gives 4xAA (4.8V) for servos and 6xAA (7.2V) for the motors.

IMG_0962

On-Board Cam:

GoPro Hero HD has been used to shoot the OnBoard video. This camera can shoot HD-Video. It’s not a wireless device, instead the video is stored on a SD-Card.

5214825695_034e75e9f6_b

Bluetooth Remote Control:

Sparkfun Bluetooth Mate has been used to remote control the robot from an Android phone, as shown in the 3rd video. The Cellbotapplication can be used without any modification.

IMG_1109

Source: http://letsmakerobots.com/robot/project/mashr-my-arduino-start-here-robot

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DIY a Constructor-i 3D Printer

make-2-1024x479

The do-it-yourself (DIY) movement, has many intersections with that of the 3D printing space. A large portion of those who own desktop 3D printers are obviously interested in DIY projects. After all, when you 3D print anything, you are involved in some sort of DIY project, whether you realize it or not.

Makeblock, based in Shenzhen, China is a 30 person team which caters to the DIY community by offering a vast array of mechanical parts and electronic modules to help turn ideas into successful projects. From plates, to beams, to motors, sensors, brackets, controllers, and drivers, MakeBlock offers it all. All the parts on their platform are able to easily interconnect with one another, providing a seamless method of construction. The company has been offering a variety of interesting kits for anything from robotics to electric motors.

Recently, however, the company has entered the 3D printing space, with the launch of a DIY kit for their Makeblock Constructor I 3D Printer. Many of you may be used to putting together 3D printers from kit form, but this is no simple kit. The purpose of this printer being sold this way, is not simply to save money on assembly costs, but to provide DIY’ers an awesome educational project. The kit for the Makeblock Constructor I 3D Printer includes approximately 400 parts in total, making this an incredibly interesting project to tackle for those who enjoy the sense of accomplished, after making something practically from scratch.

The actual printer, once assembled, is quite a powerful machine, featuring an anodized aluminum frame, and decent print resolutions. Below you will find some of the general specifications of the MakeBlock Constructor I.

make-3

  • Printer Size: 324mm X 312mm X400mm
  • Print Materials: 1.75mm PLA
  • Build Envelope (WxDxH): 125mm x 165mm x 120mm
  • Speed: 40mm/s, max 100mm/s
  • XY Resolution: 0.1mm
  • Layer Resolution: 0.1-0.3mm
  • Extruder: All metal, temperatures up to 250 degrees Celcius
  • Software: Slic3r+Printrun, Cura, kisslicer, MatterControl, Skeinforge
  • Firmware: Marlin
  • File Type: STL

For those interested in taking on this project, the entire kit can be pre-ordered right away for $699.99. MakeBlock hopes to begin shipping the kits out before October 10 of this year. For customers who pre-order the kit, Makeblock will throw in an additional spool of PLA filament, as well as a $50 coupon for their next purchase.  It is recommended that you download and read the complete instructions prior to dishing out the $699.99 for the kit, as it may be more complicated than you initially thought.

Let us know if you plan on purchasing the kit, and how the assembly goes. Feel free to post a diary of your assembly within the Makeblock Constructor I forum thread on 3DPB.com.  Check out the full list of all 400 parts of this printer which need to be put together, followed by a video of the completely assembled Constructor I 3D Printer below.

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HMOD-1

Project by MarkusB

I am working since a while on a new humanoid to continue my AI experiments. So far I have finished a conceptual 3-D-drawing, based on the parts I want to use. The 2WD base is from Makeblock, the upper body the Johnny 5 torso from Lynxmotion. I have cancled the base rotate turntable and changed the original 1 DOF head with ultrasonic sensor to a 2 DOF head with compound eye. Following input/output devices are planned in the moment:

6 HC-SR04 ultrasonic sensors
Optical encoders for the geared motors
Devantech CMPS 10 compass module
Compound eye
Costum made speech recognition board based on the HM2007 chip (I love the fact that this chip works with perceptrons)
Parallax Emic 2 Text-to-Speech Module
2 geared motors for propulsion
14 DOF torso

HMOD-1-1 HMOD-1-2

Some further work done…

Changed geared motors of the Makeblock platform (from 6 V, gear ratio 1:75 to 12 V, gear ratio 1:184):

Platform_with_new_motors_2

CNC machined nylon deck:

Nylon_deck

Platform with nylon deck, Arduino Mega, motor controller and Li-Po battery:

Nylon_deck_assambled

Machined aluminium deck:

Aluminium_deck

Ultrasonic ranger (HC-SR04) array:

Ultrasonic_ranger_aray

Obstacle avoidance will be done via so called bubble rebound algorithm (see attached PDF).

Attachment Size
Obstacle_avoidance_algorithm.pdf 265.24 KB

HMOD-1 upper body under construction:

Upper_body_HMOD-1

Source: http://letsmakerobots.com/blog/markusb/hmod-1-update-3